The Method Of Shoulder Saving In Garment Plate Making

When the dart is on the shoulders, there are many common ways to deal with shoulder provinces. The three most common method is to stitch the half and relax half the amount, fold the provincial way and treat the shoulder area into several small provinces to form a wrinkle effect.

There are many commonly used methods of shoulder handling when the dart is on the shoulder. The three most common methods are:

1, the suture should be sutured to the shoulder, or only one half of the suture.
2. Fold the dart.
3, divide the provincial road into several small provincial roads that are not processed.

Replacing the dart with a folded form can also create a good shape curve of the human body, and because it is folded, the original shoulder line will be modified into a curve, so that the shoulder line can be straight after folding. The highest point corrected by shoulder line is at the center of the provincial road, about 1.5cm from the original shoulder line.

After merging the original shoulder dart and transferring the dart to the cut under the armhole, three parallel lines can be drawn on the shoulders as the position of the pleat. The middle line is exactly the original shoulder line, while the other two lines are 2-2.5cm on each side. They are about half of the length of the original dart, and are eventually collected to the original provincial point. Cut these lines, cut them from the shoulders to the chest points, then move slightly behind the paper, and divide the three folds into the three fold by merging the cuts under the armhole. Fix the three folds with pins or glue on the paper.

　　 Increase shoulder area

Sometimes, in order to get a tighter or more effective result, it is necessary to increase the provincial road. Most of the cases appear in the very fitting style, such as "pleats" coat, swimsuit, tights, Underwear As well as prototype clothing, and so on, but can not increase in the shoulder area near the front centerline. Generally, it will increase by half or twice the size of the province near the shoulder point.

　　 Shears shoulder:

In order to get loose effect on the chest, sometimes it will cut the shoulder area smaller. This method is very necessary for some special styles, such as a less fitting blouse or a daily T-shirt changing style, and sometimes to suit some body shape requirements. In general, the shoulder is shortened from inside the outer line to the inside, and then the armhole is redrawn from the new SP point. Small provincial roads such as these are usually slightly shorter during stitching.

　　 Temporary movement of shoulder provinces

In many styles, the "move" to other locations at the very beginning will be shifted to the relevant position of the "style" requirement or "temporarily" to facilitate the drawing of the structural lines of the garment under this condition.

In the pattern, cut from the position of the actual bust line under the armhole, until the chest point is X, then fold the shoulder point at the chest point X for the provincial cusp and replace it with a pin. A cut opening will appear under the armhole. This gap indicates that the shoulder load has been transferred to a new location, and it will not obstruct the drawing line of other parts of the garment. After drawing the structural lines of other parts of the style, the shoulder province can return to its original position. For example, you can simply remove the original pin from the shoulder, and merge the dart under the armhole, or take the adhesive tape and other methods, such as pins or paper, to complete the merger of the provincial road. After completing the conversion, the "temporary breach" will not work in other designs of the pattern.